Carnival in Slovenia
In spring Slovenia chases winter away with Mardi Gras
The Kurentovanji carnival is when young men dress in elaborate costumes to parade through towns and villages.
Set on a hill in south-eastern Slovenia is the town of Ptuj, which dates back to Roman times. Like all such ancient towns, it has a castle which has evolved over the centuries, showing various styles. And, like most modern-day castles it houses a museum in one corner of which the carnival costumes are on display.
The Kurent Costume
The tradition of carnival in Slovenia goes back into the mists of time - possible to the 6th century. The main carnival figures are the Kurentswho wear a most elaborate costume.
The headdress, which is made of sheepskin, has changed over the centuries to become even more elaborate. Big horns made of leather or felt were replaced by two upright short sticks and intertwined with brightly colored paper strips. The face is of leather with openings for the eyes and mouth which are circled with red paint. A long leather nose is sewn onto it. The teeth are white beans threaded onto a piece of string and the long red tongue is of either cloth or leather.
The body of the costume is pale colored sheepskin (sometimes merino). The chain belt has five cow bells attached to it and the Kurent fastens handkerchiefs to it which he acquires from young girls during the course of the procession. The girls usually give them willingly, if not he simply takes them.
On his feet are red or green socks and black boots. And he carries a wooden club. No wonder most girls give up their handkerchiefs - he really is a fearsome sight.
What is amazing is that some of the oldest costumes - in the region of 200-300 years old - closely resemble the American Indian T-Bird. It seems incredible that nations an ocean apart had the same ideas at about the same time.
At the end of winter the Kurents - the harbingers of spring - dress up and parade through towns and villages chasing away the winter.
The Rest of the Parade
Other creatures in the procession include bears, roosters and some weird and wonderful ones. There is, of course, the devil - which procession of this nature would be without? Then come people dressed as grandafthers and grandmothers, gypsies, nymphs and the plotharji - the unmarried people who should have married during the previous year and didn't do so. They come in for a really hard time. Their punishment is to drag a block of wood around with them all day.
The carnival takes place on the Sunday before Shrove Tuesday and, as it is a traditional festival people from all over Slovenia go to Ptuj to see the most important processions.
The museum is open October 15 - May 1 9.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m./May 15 - October 1 9.00 a.m. - 6.00 p.m.
Admission is: Adults 4 Euros/$5.60; Seniors 3 Euros/$4.20; Children 2.4 Euros/$3.50
As Slovenia is a very small country with one 'freeway' going roughly from west to east, finding Ptuj in a rental car from Ljubljana (the capital) is very easy. Drive north-east towards Maribor and Ptuj, which is in the same canton, is to the right before reaching Maribor.
Florence in neighbouring Italy also has some wonderful processions, especially on Easter Sunday with the Scoppio del Carro.
